10/31/12

My Kurdish Experience


In 1980s Turkish military published a report stating that Kurds/Kurdish as a word does not exist. Its a sound that one hears while walking on the snow.

Kurd, Kurd, Kurd and Kurd.

In 2000s Turkish government in relation to the South Anatolian Dams Project came out with a report stating that they would like the mountain Turks to integrate with the Modern Turks. There was no mention of the word Kurd/Kurdish.

This is the story of Kurdish experienced by an Indian.

When a generation of culture is lost, someone has to fight for it. When there are millions of people practising this language in silenced tones, someone protests. There are stories beyond what you have heard. There are hardships beyond our understanding.

There is more to turkey than Turkish identity.

This was my experience of the Kurdish issue. I had heard about it from my Turkish friends. I had read about them in my internship. But this was my first time, I was about to experience them. Imagine finding my group of communists, leftists and Marxists mind in the middle of Istanbul. Imagine people with a Kurdish history. With a Kurdish soul, with a Kurdish sense of life. I was ignorant to the any of this.

What was one supposed to do in such situation. Sit and observe. Silence teaches you better than any books in the world.

Kurds : People of the mountains, people who are spread across three different countries : Iraq, Syria, and turkey. They live in different parts of Turkey, but mostly are situated in the South east regions of Turkey. Here, even in 2012 it is difficult to come across the language of Kurdish issue in local places. It is not taught in schools, and it has no way of getting into universities. PKK ( an organisation) which is referred to as terrorist organisation by the Turkish government, is one of the groups fighting for the Kurdish cause. Their leader has been behind bars for a decade now.



Kurds are people who have been fighting for their country called Kurdistan. People who have been denied the right to practise their own past. How horrifying can one this get. How hard human life has to to fight to get to preserve their own past. Kurdish history is a standing commentary on this.

A language which is passed on by mothers and fathers, passed on a knowledge based on memory. There is no place to practise this rich language , there is no place to see this language. It is spoken in houses, in families , in hearts and in memories. They talk in hush sounds, their language is restricted within four walls. They have their discussions in the houses.



The nation don’t speak their language, but the wind takes it beyond boundaries. It stays with you.


A Kurdish guy and a Turkish woman falling in love and completing each other as souls. This is what I felt seeing amca(uncle) and tenzei (aunt); the family with whom I was staying in Istanbul. It was just beautiful. Such happy souls who injected me with their laughter. Please keep in mind, we were totally unaware of each other. They did not know my language and I had no introduction to their language. But I felt at home. This is exactly how Home felt.

Living with an amja ( who was in love with languages ) and tenzei ( whose affairs with history went beyond the boundaries of turkey, Egypt and India) was one of the best experiences of my life. Such a lovely couple, their curiosity to learn about my culture and their patience to teach me their culture was simply heart-warming. Their hospitality and their generosity is something ill always remember about Istanbul. Istanbul would have been very different without them.

For an Indian, it was amusing to learn that so many Hindi/Urdu words had common roots with Kurdish words. It was wonderful to realise that words like insaan, rah, kheeya, murat, kabool, kanoon and many more were common in both the languages. Some of my conversations with amja were just based on this. He used to say Kurdish words and in return I used to get excited and blurt out Hindi words. Both were learning and in their own space, both were getting exposed to a time beyond their knowledge.

Their music and their instruments have a touch of the mountains, touch of the soul of the free spirits, touch of wind that flows, their voices are beyond the gender dimensions. One has to listen, listen carefully; it has a lot to offer and teach.

Istanbul was an enlightening experience. In a lot of ways it humbled me and it taught me things my own senses were inhibited to learn. When one is stared with a new understanding of a system one is always left staring at sky. This is what Kurdish Identity did to me. 4 days with a Kurdish family gave me a better pair of glasses to see life.

The best way of learning is by listening, observing. World has too much to offer. Just sit and observe. Staying with a family is the best way to do this. Dive in to their lives, leave your senses behind. Let them lead you, and like me,you might just find jannat!

10/22/12

Ankara in snapshots!














































Smoke like a Turk...


A friend once said that, life is too boring, we need fairy tale; wish I could escape it. 3 weeks in Ankara made me realise this. We can escape it. Pack your bags, force yourself out of your comfort zone and you might tread on the biggest adventure of your life.

There is a big CAUTION: it can turn into a nightmare, there would be days you might not talk to anyone and there is a high chance of you mixing up your senses :)

This is what Ankara did to me, the un-appreciated sister of the popular Istanbul. This capital in its own sweet way would welcome you into the hearts of Turkey. If you are willing to see, it would show you a lifetime of opportunities. You just need to observe and life would start turning into fairy tale.

1) A new language: never take your grasping power for granted, sometimes you might just be dependent on your memory. The amount of words that were shoved onto me on daily basis were beyond my small memory, but I had no choice but to remember them. I was taught new words everyday and these words were my guide to survival. People did not speak English, I had to learn words, even small small things like water, buying a chai was initially a struggle. But it was amazing how my senses : hearing and listening developed a harmony. suddenly i started listening to people. I was having something more than a conversation. I  was looking for body language, eye movements, smile, fluttering of lashes, every small hint mattered.

2)People : Turkish and Kurdish people are loving, when I say loving, they take this very seriously and literally. They love loving life. They enjoy life and they love treating their guests. Its wonderful being a guest in this country. Random people buy you chai, random people would love to talk to you, random people will come and help you on the roads. Random people would make your day special in their own special people. yes, these are all random people, but they all would contribute to your day. and random would get as random as a school boy , an old woman, a shopkeeper, a waiter and the list just goes on...

3) Mannerisms : first thing first : Turkish/ Kurdish people do not know the meaning of the word, no ( hayur,yok). They just would not take a NO. even if you are full, even you if you don't like it. they would only look at you with all their might.Their pupils would expand and turkish woman might see this as one of the biggest insults in the history of turkish empire :) Do not take me wrong here, they are lovely set, just that confused set. They really want to make you happy and are emotionally attached to their small small acts. Something I simply love about them. They are passionate and might just break into songs on the drop of a hat. They love their chai( tea) breaks and love discussing about basically anything under the roof...

4) Music : Turkish/Kurdish music is a treat for any foreign ear. Its heavenly to hear people singing on the streets. if you are lucky enough to see a classical band on the street, you are in for a treat. Listen and observe. these are songs of sorrow and romance. these are tales of someone waiting, someone longing for something.I love the Turkish instruments, keman, balama and several other instruments which would take you back to the ottoman period.



5) History : If you love history, turkey is the place to be. Be it Ataturk or Ottoman empire, the city has hints spread all over for you to explore. It has beautiful hamams to beautiful streets. It has wonderful museums to great castles.

6) Food ( yemek!): The best part about turkey is the meat. It is not meant for vegetarians. Let the non-vegeterians unleash their hunger cos this is jannat ( paradise) for them. Be it et ( meat), tavuk ( chicken) or baluk( fish). You would find all varieties everywhere, The lovely ekmeks ( breads) to yummy donesh. to great kunefs( sweets) or sweet baklava. ankara provides everyone something. you have to try Ayran (butter milk). its a great way of enjoying the dry summer.

7) Religion: I had my own share of small affair with Islam and learned a bit more about it. I came with a prejudiced mind and was given beautiful jamis( mosques) in return. I was mesmerized by the wonderful ayezaan and woman in headscarves looked prettier to me. I refuse to see the political debate in it, but was definitely taken into by the great mevlana souls.

Ankara was polite and generous to me. It was kind to a stranger and the people left such a beautiful memory with me. I even started hugging and kissing people like the Turks. like someone said in turkey do what the turks do!

and yes turks love smoking, be it woman with or without head cover they love it. its their national pastime, and they have to smoke :)